Appliqué, a French term, is a technique
by which the decorative effect is obtained by
superposing patches of coloured fabrics on a foundation
fabric. The edges of the patches are stitched
in various forms. It is distinct from what is
known as ‘patch work’, in which small
pieces of cut fabrics are usually joined side
by side to make a large piece of fabric or for
repairing a damaged fabric.
In appliqué, different pieces of cloth
are patched together to make a multi coloured
mosaic. The exotic colours, shapes and pattern
combinations against contrasting backgrounds catch
the eye.
In Rajasthan, appliqué is used for wall-paintings
and canopies which are used for processions and
festive occasions. Here pieces of cloth are stitched
together to create a pattern that is vivid as
well as colourful.
The speciality of Rajasthani appliqué
work is the bedspread made by stitching together
different coloured cloth in a decorative pattern
on top of a spread padded by other pieces of plain
material sewn together with a running stitch,
called ralli. The most interesting patterns of
this region are those made by the herding communities
and used as ox covers and cart covers. Barmer
appliqué was traditionally sewn on bedspreads
of black or brown bases. Motifs were almost entirely
inspired by nature: trees, leaves, flowers and
animals. Women in six villages in Rajasthan produce
these appliqués. An elaborate bedspread
may take nearly a month to complete
The basic material for appliqué is cloth
and the process is fairly simple. Flat motifs
are first cut from cloth and specially prepared
motifs are made separately. If more than one of
the same cut motifs is required, a stencil is
used. These cut and specially prepared motifs
are then superimposed on a base cloth in a predetermined
layout and sequence. The edges of the motifs are
turned in and skillfully stitched onto the base
cloth, stitched by embroidery, or without turning
as necessary. The specially prepared motifs may
be coloured or white and the base cloth is usually
coloured. Some of the specially prepared motifs
have exclusive embroidery work and some have mirror
work. In heavy canopies, the base cloth is additionally
supported by a backcloth for strength.
The stitching process varies from item to item.
Sometimes embroidered patterns are also used and
in a few items mirror work is also incorporated.
The layout of various motifs and patterns vary
according to the shape of the piece. The canopy
has a large centrepiece, which may be a square.
Several borders of different widths, one outside
the other are then bound to this centrepiece,
till the edge is reached. In the umbrella the
inner field is arranged in circles, each circle
having patches of one motif placed side by side.
Patterns are laid in the same way as the shape
of the item, with a large design or two placed
at the centre. The designs used are fairly varied
yet fixed and consist of stylised representations
of flora and fauna as well as a few mythical figures.
The common motifs are the elephant, parrot, peacock,
ducks, creepers, trees, and flowers like lotus,
jasmine, half-moon, and the Sun.
Just as there are a few fixed designs, only a
limited number of colours are used in the traditional
appliqué craft. These are green, red, blue,
amber and black. The creativity of the craftsmen
is seen in the various combinations of motifs
as well as in the mixing of these limited colours.
While there has been very little change in the
use of motifs, there has been a trend towards
greater experimentation in colour combinations.
