The art of Bandhani or Tie 'n' Dye is done all
over Rajasthan, with Jaipur, Barmer and Sikar
being the main centers. The finest bandhani work
in Rajasthan comes from Jaipur with a little difference
according to the region. Bandhani comes in different
designs, colors and motifs and this variation
is region specific.
The technique behind this art is indicated by
its name itself. Bandhani, which means tying,
results from tying and dying of fabric in accordance
with the overall design scheme. Fabric is tied
in small and big knots and then dipped in the
dye to prevent coloring of the tied areas. This
process leads to the creation of colorful concentric
circles and squares, in all sizes. This may be
repeated several times, by tying different region
each time keeping in mind the final design or
pattern and using new shades of dye. Dying always
starts with lighter shades and the darkest shades
are used at the end. After each successive dying
the cloth is untied and dried.
The craftsmen from Rajasthan grow the nail of
their little finger to facilitate lifting the
cloth to tie it or else they wear a small metal
ring with a point on the finger. The fabrics used
for bandhani are muslin, handloom or silk. Traditionally
vegetable dyes were used but today chemical dyes
are becoming very popular. Different synthetic
or fancy fabrics are also much in demand.
Rajasthan is well known for its leheriya (waves)
pattern. This is one of the so many tie and dye
patterns that results in wavy pattern, which symbolizes
water waves. The stripes of different colors are
usually arranged diagonally and use two colors
only. The two colors alternate in waves.
With changing times, as bandhani has become
a part of fashion, various shades and english
colors are used for tie and dye. Bandhani material
is sold still folded and the knots tied. The knot
size and intricacy of design varies as per design
and demand. Bandhani is the basic pattern on cloth
and is decorated further by various embroideries.
Aari and gotta work are traditional embroideries
done in zarri and are much demanded with bandhani.
Various fancy work is done these days which has
made it an important element of fashion.
