Embroidery is done in Jaipur at the Amber Haveli
and in Barmer district. The Havelli workshop was
established to provide work for the women in the
town of Amber. The local women work on a flexible
time scale that enables them to carry out their
roles at home and contribute to the family income.
Work from Barmer is embellished and heavy, carried
out by the local women when they are not working
in the fields.
The colour and vibrancy of Rajasthan extends
into its embroidery as well. A wealth of stitchery,
motif and design is spread across the state. Peasant
women embroider their family’s garments
as well as the cloths of the household cattle
- the camel, the bullock and the horse are often
decorated with beautifully embroidered cloths.
The motifs range from floral patterns, to human
and animal figures and abstract designs. The thread
used varies from the finest silk to the thickest
wool. The colours are either vivid or muted.
Often, the thread work is combined with glass,
sequins and different kinds of stitches such as
the stem and herringbone. Though different communities
have different and distinct styles, typical of
Rajasthan is the Pichwai, a richly embroidered
cloth representing images of the Lord Krishna
in a black base and colourful thread work.
Jat women in northern Rajasthan decorate their
ghaghras (skirts) and odhnis (scarves) with a
lively display of needle work. Horses, camels,
lions, peacocks, stylised trees - all appear juxtaposed
in bright colours and vivid patterns.
Rich patterns worked in chain stitch are produced.
Contrasting colours create a dramatic effect.
Geometric forms are balanced against trees, peacocks
and other motifs. Western Rajasthan and especially
Jaisalmer, has outstandingly beautiful embroidery
with a multitude of stitches combined with mirror-work.
Also typical of Rajasthan is the elaborate silk
and wool embroidery done on leather. Horse and
camel saddles, seats and gloves, bags and belts
are all coloured with the splendour of this thread
work
In the princely states, embroidery karkhanas
or workshops, were developed to serve the nobility.
Elaborate embroideries, richly worked with gold,
silver and even precious stones embellished the
garments and drapery that were produced in these
court-workshops. Gota (gold or sliver ribbon)
and zari (gold or silver thread) were used extensively.
Jaipur is renowned for using gota in appliqué work.
